A-level Design and Technology₇₅₆₂

Students are expected to be able to name specific materials for a wide range of applications.

They must also be able to provide detailed and justified explanations of why specific materials and combinations of materials are suitable for given applications with reference to:

• physical and mechanical properties and working characteristics
• product function
• aesthetics
• cost
• manufacture and disposal.

Understand the appropriate use of textile materials based on their physical and working characteristics such as:

• thermal insulation
• ability to reflect light
• thermoplasticity
• flammability
• ability to absorb moisture
• development of static electricity.

Calculation of quantities of materials sizes and costs.

Students must know the classifications of the following fibres, and be able to name examples that belong to each category:

• natural fibres:
  • natural plant/cellulosic fibres – cotton, linen, ramie
  • natural animal/protein fibres – wool, silk
  • hair fibres – cashmere, mohair, angora
• manufactured fibres:
  • regenerated fibres – viscose, acetate
  • new generation lyocells – Modal®, Tencel®, Lyocell®
• synthetic fibres:
  • polyamide (nylon), polyester, acrylic, elastomeric
  • chlorofibres (polyvinyl), fluorofibres (PTFE)
  • aramid fibres (Kevlar®, Nomex®)
  • inorganic fibres including glass, carbon, metallic, ceramic
• smart materials:
  • reactive materials
  • photochromic dyes
  • phase changing materials
• modern materials:
  • microfibres
  • nano-fibres
  • microencapsulated fibres and fabric.

Students must understand how workshop and industrial tests are set up and what will be tested, measured and compared, including:

• flammability
• crease resistance
• shrink resistance
• colour fastness
• strength
• pilling.

Analysis of data obtained from testing.

Students should be able to name different types of fibres.

Students should be able to describe the performance characteristics of fibres, including:

• absorbency
• strength
• elasticity
• flammability
• thermal qualities
• lustre
• handle.

Students should be able to explain the different fibres and their specific performance characteristics, including:

• plant/cellulose fibres: very absorbent, little elasticity, good strength, poor insulators
• animal/protein fibres: very absorbent, thermally insulating
• regenerated fibres: poor strength, soft, highly absorbent, crease badly
• new generation lyocells: with improved performance characteristics
• synthetic fibres: very good strength, totally non-absorbent, smooth, lightweight, do not crease, can be heat set (thermoplastic).

Students should be able to explain the shape and formation of fibres. They should understand and be able to discuss the different cross-sectional and linear formation of fibres that can occur in natural form, and those that can be engineered during synthetic and manmade fibre production.

Understand how the physical shape and formation of fibres affect their performance.

Fibre production.

Students should be aware of, and be able to describe, the manufacturing processes used to make fibres in relation to the fibre source.

With specific reference to staple fibres and continuous filament fibres, students should be able to demonstrate a knowledge of:

• wet spinning of regenerated fibres
• melt spinning of synthetic fibres to give very fine, smooth continuous filaments.

Understand how fibre production can affect the fibre formation.

Yarn production.

Students should be aware of, and be able to describe, the manufacture of staple and filament yarns, single and plied yarns.

Mixture and blends.

Students should know of the need to blend fibres to create aesthetic effects, performance fabrics, improved care and maintenance of fabrics.

Students should be aware of, and be able to describe, the production processes associated with mixtures and blends, including:

• the mechanics of blending different fibres together
• how fibres are combined together to make yarns, eg stable fibre blends and multi-filament yarns
• yarns made from mixes of staple fibres and filament fibres cut down to staple form
• the different methods of core-spinning yarns which include elastomeric fibres
• fibre content of typical blends.

Hand and machine knitted methods.

Students should be aware of, and be able to describe, the production processes associated with hand and machine knitting, including:

• panel knitting
• fully fashioned panels
• whole garment knitting.

Non-woven fabrics.

Students should be aware of, and be able to describe, the production processes associated with non-woven fabrics, including:

• felts, adhesive and heat bonded
• needle-felt.

Special woven effects.

Students should be aware of, and be able to describe, the production processes associated with woven effects with coloured yarns, including:

• checks and stripes including gingham, tartan, madras.

Effects created using fibres and yarns.

Students should be aware of, and be able to describe, the effects that can be created, including:

• bouclé and crêpe fabrics
• crinkle and permanent creasing
• metallic fibres
• use of dyes to give multicoloured fabric
• use of thermoplastic fibres.

Students should know that fibres need to be made into yarns before they can be manufactured into woven and knitted fabrics.

Students should be able to explain the performance characteristics of yarns, including:

• the importance of twist in relation to strength and bulk of the yarn: the importance of this in the making of crêpe yarns and fabrics
• technical terms relating to yarns: systems for numbering yarns, eg tex and denier staple and filament yarns.

Students should be able to describe the main yarn types, including:

• textured yarns: false twist and air jet texturising processes, why yarns need to be textured, the importance of thermoplastic qualities in the texturing process
• fancy yarns: bouclé, slub, chenille, metallised yarns.

Students should be able to explain the main fabric structures of woven fabrics and be able to recognise these structures and typical end uses for a range of woven fabrics, including:

• plain (tabby) weave fabrics: broderie anglaise, calico, canvas, chambray, chiffon, flannel, muslin, organdie, poplin, sheeting, shirting, taffeta, voile, winceyette
• twill weave fabrics: cavalry twill, denim, dog-tooth check, drill, gabardine, herringbone tweeds, serge, tartan
• satin weave fabrics: satin, sateen, duchesse satin, heavy bridal satins, lighter weight satins for linings and lingerie
• brocades and Jacquard
• three yarn system weaves: cut pile fabrics, including velvet, needlecord, corduroy, loop pile fabrics, including terry towelling.

Students should be able to explain the two main structures of knitted fabrics and be able to recognise these structures and typical end uses for a range of knitted fabrics, including:

• weft knits: hand and machine knits, plain knit, single jersey, double jersey, rib knits, jacquard knits
• warp knits: net and lace structures.

Students should be able to understand and explain that non-woven fabrics are produced directly from fibres and have knowledge of typical end uses of non-woven fabrics.

Students should know and understand the term smart material.

The effects that can be created by a range of smart materials and have knowledge of specific applications, eg in relation to fabrics for safety and novelty products.

Students should be able to explain the suitability of smart materials for given applications making reference to how the material responds to external stimuli, including:

• changes in temperature
• changes in light levels
• changes in pressure (force).

Students should know and understand the term technical textiles.

Students should be able to explain the suitability of technical textiles for given applications.

Students should be familiar with the following technical textiles:

• phosphorescent materials, microencapsulated fibres and fabrics
• ceramic and carbon fibres used in the production of nano-fibres
• ceramic fibres to give a fabric UV protection properties.

Students should be able to name and describe popular names of natural, man-made and synthetic fibres and fabrics, including:

• Tactel®
• Lyocell®
• Modal®
• Tencel®
• Lycra®
• Polar fleece.

Students should be able to explain the performance characteristics of fabrics, including:

• strength
• durability
• elasticity
• flammability
• thermal qualities
• absorption
• water-resistance
• stretch
• formability
• handle
• drape
• weight
• rip-proof.

Students should be able to explain the following terms, and how they relate to particular fabrics:

• pattern repeat
• directional pile
• nap
• texture
• lustre.

Students should be able to describe and explain the following, and how they relate to particular fabrics and their uses:

• woven fabrics have relatively good strength and stability
• non-woven fabrics lack strength and have no grain
• knitted fabrics have fluidity and stretch
• a nap, or pile, reflects light in different ways
• size of pattern repeat in relation to the appearance of a product.

Understand how the physical structure of fabrics affects performance.

Understand that environmental factors can cause potential degradation of fabrics, eg with reference to colour fastness, weakening by sunlight and chlorine, inappropriate care routines.

Students should know and understand how the properties of fabrics and their physical characteristics relate to their selection for specific fashion, clothing and textile products. This should include reference to both fabric construction and fibre/yarn content and the inter-relationship between them in determining the overall characteristic of a fabric. Properties and physical characteristics to include:

• tensile strength
• elasticity
• resilience
• durability
• flammability
• weight.

Different seam types and their selection and use on different products taking into account the fabric type, effect to be achieved, efficiency of manufacture and after care of product.

Students should have knowledge of the specific techniques required when working with different fabric types, eg knitted, checked, stretch, directional, sheer and patterned fabrics.

• sewing threads: eg polyester and cotton machine thread, buttonhole thread
• embroidery threads: eg stranded embroidery, madeira/viscose machine embroidery
• special effect threads: eg metallic, glow-in-the-dark, multicoloured.

The use of heat-sensitive fleece such as Bondaweb ® when joining layers of fabric, eg in applique work.

The use of fastenings including buttons and buttonholes and loops, zips, poppers, clips, buckles, clasps, Velcro, D-rings, hooks and eyes, fabric and ribbon ties.

Selection and application of fastenings for a range of fashion, clothing and textile products taking account of the intended use, fabric type, the effect to be achieved, efficiency of manufacture and after care of product.

Students should have an awareness of the different types of fastening within each category, eg open-ended and invisible zips, flat and domed buttons.

• Braids.
• Ribbons.
• Piping.
• Edging.
• Bindings.
• Fringing.
• Lace.
• Beads.
• Diamantés.

Selection of the most appropriate component for a product taking into consideration the style, effect, fabric used, manufacturing considerations, safety in relation to user, availability and cost implications.

Types and applications in relation to fabric weight and construction, and end use of product.

Students should have knowledge of the different fabrics used and the reasons for choice in relation to specific products.

The effects of finishes and the reasons they are needed in relation to:

• the fibre/fabric properties
• end use of the product.

A range of mechanical finishes, including:

• brushing/raising
• calendaring
• embossing
• heat setting using thermoplastic fibres to give permanent pleats or crinkles and make fabric non-crease and non-shrink
• stone and sand washing.

Understand how the physical characteristics of fabrics can be modified by using mechanical finishes, eg trapped air acts as an insulator, air supports combustion, smooth fabric reflect light better than those with texture.

A range of chemical finishes, including:

• mercerisation
• flame retardancy, eg Proban® and Pytovatex® used on cotton fabrics
• water resistance
• non-iron/crease resistance, eg Teflon
• shrink resistance and anti felting
• moth proofing
• anti-pilling
• hygienic (sanitised).

Detailed knowledge of the chemicals involved and methods of application is not expected.

Understand how the physical characteristics of fabrics can be modified by applying chemical finishes.

• Gore-Tex®
• Sympatex®
• Bonded fabrics, eg fake leather backed by a woven fabric to give stability.

Surface decoration – dyeing.

Students should be aware of, and be able to describe, dyeing as a surface decoration, including:

• vat, discharge and resist, eg tie-dye, batik
• when dye is applied in relation to fibres, yarns, fabrics and finished products
• the different types of dye fastness required in fashion clothing and textile products, eg fastness to washing, light, perspiration, rubbing and chlorine
• dyeing in response to consumer demand and seasonal trends.

Understand the principles behind discharge and resist dyeing.

Understand the degradation of fabrics in relation to colour fastness.

Surface decoration – printing.

Students should be aware of, and be able to describe, the steps that need to be taken in preparing a fabric for printing, including:

• desizing
• scouring
• bleaching.

Students should be aware of, and be able to describe, printing as a surface decoration, including:

• direct
• discharge
• hand (block and stencil)
• rotary/flat bed screen printing
• transfer
• digital printing
• dye sublimation.

Embroidery.

Students should be aware of, and be able to describe, a range of hand and machine embroidery stitches.

Quilting.

Students should be aware of, and be able to describe, the construction of quilted fabrics and reasons for their use.

Understand the effects of trapped air on thermal insulation.

Scales of production.

Students should be aware of, and be able to describe, the different scales of production giving example products and specific manufacturing methods.

Specific scales of production to include:

• one-off, bespoke
• batch production
• mass/line production
• unit production systems (UPS)
• quick response manufacturing (QRM)
• section
• vertical in-house production.

The use of computer systems.

Students should be aware of how computer systems are used to plan and control manufacturing, reduce waste and respond quickly to changes in consumer demand.

Students should be able to explain the use of computer controlled systems in production, distribution and storage.

Students should be able to explain the use of standardised and bought-in components made by specialist manufacturers.

Sub-assembly.

Sub-assembly as a separate line of manufacture for certain parts of a product.

Global production.

Students should be aware of and able to explain the positive and negative impacts of global production, including:

• offshore production
• imports and exports
• branded goods
• contracted goods.

• The advantages and disadvantages of using CAD compared to manually generated alternative.
• The use of CAD to develop and present ideas for products.
• How CAD is used in industrial applications.

Use of datum points and geometry when setting out design drawings. The use of tolerances in dimensioning.

Students should be aware of, and be able to describe, how CAM is used in the manufacture of products.

• fabric manufacture
• fabric printing
• lay planning and computer controlled cutting
• automated buttonholing
• making and sewing of pockets
• seam stitching
• pressing
• computer controlled decorative processes
• laser cutting.

Calculating speeds and times for machining.

Students should be aware of, and be able to describe, how virtual modelling/testing is used in industry prior to product production.

• simulation
• pattern design systems
• computer controlled printing to produce sample fabric lengths.

Students should be aware of, and able to describe, the use of electronic point of sales (EPOS) for marketing purposes and the collection of market research data.

• availability of materials
• scheduling of machines and people
• coordinating suppliers and customers.

Product development and improvement.

Through the study and critical analysis of existing products students should develop and understanding of the requirements of the following:

• the design, development and manufacture of fashion clothing and textiles products to meet specification criteria
• fitness for purpose
• accuracy of production
• how the critical assessment of products can lead to the development of new designs.

Students should develop the skills to critically assess products and develop new design proposals.

Students should develop their ability to work with a variety of materials, including two- and three-dimensional forms, to produce creative and original products which satisfy the demands of the target market, and consider accurate and efficient manufacture.

When designing products/prototypes students should consider aesthetics, ergonomics and anthropometrics.

Inclusive design.

Students should be aware of, and be able to explain, the development of products that are inclusive in their design so that they can be used by a wide range of users including the disabled, children, the elderly, transgender people and gender non-conformists.

Safe working practices:

• knowledge of the Health and Safety at Work Act (1974), and how it influences the safe manufacture of textile products
• control of Substances Hazardous to Health (COSHH) and safety precautions that should be taken with relevant materials
• safe working practices and identifying potential hazards for the school or college workshop and industrial contexts
• safety precautions that should be taken with specific manufacturing processes
• the concept of risk assessment and its application to given manufacturing processes.

Understand why some materials, adhesives and finishes are hazards.

Safety in products and services to the customer.

Students should be aware of, and able to explain, how designers and manufacturers ensure products are safe for consumers to use, including:

• legislation used to protect consumers and its impact on product design, eg Consumer Rights Act (2015), Sales of Goods Act (1979), specifically including the requirements that relate to children’s clothing
• the British Standards Institute (BSI), and how specific products might be tested to meet safety standards
• measures to ensure the safety of toys, eg Lion Mark
• advice to consumers:
  • manufacturer’s instructions
  • safety warnings
  • aftercare advice including care labelling.

Students should be aware of, and able to explain, the importance of the following to the designer:

• copyright and design rights
• patents
• registered designs
• trademarks
• logos.

The need to modify designs to make them more efficient to manufacture, including:

• reducing the number of manufacturing processes
• how the choice of materials affects the use, care and disposal of products: advisory labelling to encourage responsible use and care of textile products
• application of the six Rs of sustainability: reduce the quantity of materials, of toxic materials, of damaging materials and associated energy use, reuse components and parts, rethink by using eco friendly alternative materials, recycle materials and/or components into new products
• maintenance: temporary and integral fixings, use of standardised parts, allowing for service and repair/replacement of parts, ability to upgrade with software downloads, selection of fabrics and components that can be cared for without the need for special treatments, advisory labelling to encourage responsible washing and drying of textile products.

Students should be aware of, and able to explain, the different ways in which a product can be cared for and maintained, including care labels, their use and what they mean.

Understand the relationship between care recommendations and fibre/fabric properties, eg the thermoplastic nature of synthetic fibres and wash/iron temperatures, shrinkage of wool fibres when washed at high temperatures and with excessive mechanical action.

The use of feasibility studies to assess the practicality for production of proposed designs, including the testing of prototypes with potential consumers.

Interpret statistical analyses to determine user needs and preferences.

Use data related to human scale and proportion to determine product scale and dimensions.

The importance of marketing and brand identity, including:

• customer identification
• labelling
• packaging
• corporate identification
• concept of global marketing: the promotion and advertisement of products including the use of new technologies, eg social media, viral marketing
• product costing and profit
• awareness of the role of entrepreneurs.

The collaborative working of designers in the development of new and innovative fashion, clothing and textile products.

• costs
• profit margin
• target market
• budget.

Interpretation of market research data, calculating costs and profit.

The sales and marketing cycles for specific product groups, including:

• fad
• classic
• standard.

The impact of fashion on trend and the development of design products, including:

• retro
• vintage
• industrial
• traditional.

Industry development cycles, including:

• colour trends
• fibre trends
• predictions
• the importance and purpose of trade fairs.

The influence of trend and changes in lifestyle on fashion, clothing and textile products.

A range of communication and presentation techniques for conveying design proposals to clients, potential users and manufacturers, including:

• report writing
• the use of graphs
• tables and charts
• 2D/3D sketching
• the use of mixed media and rendering to enhance drawings
• dimensioning and details for manufacture.

Scaling drawings.

Use of datum points and geometry when setting out design drawings.

Representation of data used to inform design decisions and evaluation of outcomes.

Presentation of market data, user preferences and outcomes of market research.